Murom Kalach: An airy bread from ancient Russia (RECIPE)
Russian cuisine boasts a rich variety of breads, and among them Murom bread (or ‘kalach’) holds a special place. This ancient bread originated in the city of Murom and has captivated people for centuries.
Kalach originated in Murom, a city that’s located about 280 km east of Moscow, and which has a very long history. Records indicate that Murom kalach appeared long before Moscow kalach or bagels (bubliki).
The earliest mention of kalach can be traced back to a book chronicling the wedding of Prince Andrey, the youngest son of Great Prince Vladimir Monomakh, and the granddaughter of the Polovets Khan Tugorkan in 1117. Later, it was mentioned in documents dating to the mid-16th century that clearly mentioned about eight courtyards where Murom kalachy were baked.
According to legend, Catherine the Great became enthralled by kalachy when she visited the city. So great was her appreciation that kalachy from Murom subsequently found a place on the imperial table, solidifying its status as a culinary treasure. Since 1781, the emblem of Murom proudly displays three kalacha.
Catherine the Great was so enthralled by this bread that she approved its use as part of the official emblem of the city of Murom.
Although the official recipe for Murom kalach has been lost, local historians have recorded a recipe that has been baked in the region for generations. The dough is beaten vigorously to remove all the gasses that arise during fermentation, resulting in an exceptionally soft and tender texture.
The Murom kalach is comprised of three distinct parts. The ”tummy” forms a thick base, while the “lip” boasts a toasty and crispy texture, overhanging the tummy. Finally, the “handle” supports both elements.
To achieve the ideal Murom kalach, a choice of flour is crucial. Fine, dry flour is essential. The preferred choice is “extra” grade flour, known for its refined texture and quality. The flour should have protein content of about 11-15 percent.
The most distinctive aspect of Murom bread lies in the method of dough preparation. Traditionally, the dough was beaten or rubbed with one’s hands on ice for an extended period to preserve the carbon dioxide within, resulting in a porous bread. This technique gave rise to the alternate name of “grated kalach” – which figuratively also means an experienced person – due to its texture. Today, I’ve beaten the dough for a long time in order to get a porous texture. Let’s see how to bake a porous Murom kalach.
Ingredients for 2 pieces:
- Flour (highest grade) - 500 g
- Water (room temperature) - 320 ml
- Dry yeast - 4 g
- Sugar - 2 g
- Salt - 10 g
- Melted butter or fat for greasing
- Additional flour for dusting
Preparation:
1. In a large mixing bowl combine 250 ml of water, 150 grams of flour, dry yeast, and sugar. Mix well to form a liquid sourdough.
2. Leave the sourdough in a warm place for 30 minutes to allow it to ferment.
3. After 30 minutes, add the remaining flour (350 grams) gradually while kneading the dough. Add the flour in small portions until the dough becomes smooth and elastic.
4. Add salt and continue kneading until it’s well incorporated into the dough; do it for about 5 minutes more. If using a mixer, then knead at medium speed for 15 minutes.
5. Cover the dough with a clean cloth or plastic wrap, and let it ferment for 2 hours and 30 minutes in a warm place. You can place it near a heating radiator for warmth. After the first 40 minutes of fermentation, punch down the dough to release excess air. Repeat this step again after another 40 minutes.
6. After 2 hours and 30 minutes transfer the dough onto a board and sprinkle it with flour. Use a rolling pin or your hands to beat the dough hard, folding it in half periodically. Continue this process for about 10 minutes until the dough becomes dense, resembling the one you get for dumplings.
7. Shape the dough into a kalach, create a hand out of the dough and let it sit for 30-40 minutes, once again in a warm place, preferably near a heating radiator.
8. Preheat the oven to 250°C.
9. Grease the kalach with melted butter or fat, ensuring it is well coated. Sprinkle a generous amount of flour over the roll.
10. Make an incision on the kalach as shown in the picture. Rub the incision with flour, ensuring it is well covered.
11. Place it in the preheated oven and bake at 250°C for 10 minutes with steam. You can create steam by spraying the oven with water three times.
12. After 10 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 210°C and continue baking for another 35-40 minutes until the Murom kalach turns golden brown.
13. Once baked, remove the kalach from the oven and cool it on a cooling rack for at least an hour before serving. Enjoy your homemade Murom kalach!
READ MORE: Fish rasstegai: Essential appetizer pies on a Russian table (RECIPE)
